Rivets!

This detailed description of adding rivets to a scale model was provided to me by TSgt Mike Stockdale, USAF, as a result of my inquiry on a newsgroup.

Anyway, there are two basic methods for applying rivets. One is the glue drop method. This results in a raised rivet and is not really all that hard. (it sounds much harder than it actually is) The second method is to cut the rivet shapes into the fiberglass surface of your model with appropriately sized sharpened brass tubing or a custom made tool. The Hellcat you are building actually had flush rivets, so the cut-in method would be most scale. However, this type rivet doesn't show very well at much of a distance, so the glue drop method is often used, even though it isn't perfectly scale. In fact, the master himself, Mr. Dave Platt's newest Mohawk was done with the glue drop method. At the Toledo show this year, I asked him about this apparent discrepancy (almost all aircraft since mid-WWII have been flush riveted). He said that flush cut rivets just don't show up well enough at a 15 foot judging distance. So if he can fudge it, so can I!

Once I have my model fiberglassed (I use 0.75 oz cloth and Safety-poxy or ez-lam) and sanded smooth with 180-240 grit (start out with 80 grit & don't be shy about using it!) I spray on a coat of primer. I usually use K&B primer, but I've had good luck with automotive lacquer and enamel primers as well. This primer is then sanded almost all the way off (used just to fill sanding scratches), finishing with approx. 320 grit paper.

Using a plastic model or good 3-views as a guide, I then lay out all of my panel lines with 1/64" chartpack drafting tape (you can find this stuff at graphics arts stores). Another light coat of primer is then sprayed on right over the tape. I then zero down my paint gun (giving a round pattern) and spray a heavier coat of primer over each of the panel line tapes. This builds up a bit of primer at the edges of the tape. The entire model is then sanded smooth with 400 grit, being careful to sand lightly over the chartpack tape. Touch up any areas that were sanded through, and when you're satisfied with the surface of the model, remove the chartpack tape. everywhere there was a piece of tape, you will find a groove where there is no primer. Once the final coat of paint is applied, this groove will simulate a panel line very nicely.

Then comes the fun part! I use RC56 glue (Pacer has the same stuff sold under a different name) and a small syringe with a 20-22 gauge IV catheter. The catheter is a plastic type tube and can be trimmed off a little at a time if it becomes clogged or damaged. Do not use regular white/wood glues as they tend to wrinkle as they dry, giving your rivets a fried-egg appearance. The RC56 glue can be thinned with water (will lay flatter and better simulate a flush rivet) but go easy; a little goes a long way. Again, using your 3-views or plastic model, lay out your lines of rivets with a fine point pencil and get busy. It won't take long for you to get the knack of spacing and sizing the rivets properly. Any mistakes can be easily wiped up with a Q-tip. I usually work an area at a time (i.e. a wing tip) and then move to the opposite panel on the other side. This keeps things even, and allows the glue to dry on one panel, while you're working the other. I rivet for a couple of hours and then I have to take a break (headaches and eye strain) due to the level of concentration and closeness of the work. But even at only a couple of hours a night, a model can be completely riveted in a couple of weeks, much more quickly if you really go after it.

Don't be afraid to do this! It's really not nearly as tedious as it sounds, and you'll be amazed at the result. It adds so much to your model!

The flush rivet method is much the same, except that you're cutting a circular groove into the model surface with sharpened brass tubing or a special tool. I use several different sized tools made of bar stock (with a file and a drill press) and hardened by a local machine shop. The brass tubing works well if you only have a few fasteners to simulate, but you will find that it dulls quickly and you spend an awful lot of time re sharpening it. A small sharpened screwdriver can then be used to simulate dzus fasteners and cross point fasteners often used to secure panels on aircraft.

Once completed, I spray the aircraft (again with K&B or automotive lacquer), paint on any markings, clear coat, and apply appropriate weathering. I would recommend a combination of the two rivet methods for maximum effect. I usually use the glue drop method for the vast majority of the rivets, and then simulate the dzus type fasteners with the cut-in method.